Day 6: If You Like Trees, Washington Is For You

Route:  Lake Quinault to Elma, Wa

Distance:  63 miles

First off, a picture from last night:

Now you see why Teddy Roosevelt schlepped it out here to sign the bill that would create the Olympic National Park. He was no dummy.  

So last night I hung out on the beach and watched the sun set with my first cycle tourist friends - Marie and Joel from Grenoble France.  They are riding from Vancouver to Portland and wisely chose to stay 2 nights at Lake Quinault.  Nice couple. I had so much fun chatting with them, I neglected to stop by and visit with Brett and Gale (the Canadians) - and there was an offer of a beer!  All this socializing was wearing me out. 

Still got rolling a bit after 630 and was soon on my old friend the 101 and out of the rainforest:

Still lots of trees.  Lots:

After the usual 20 miles or so, I found a convenient forest service road off of the highway for a snack and a stretch: 

It occurs to me that these roads could also provide access to choice body dumping locations.... Nothing is floating up out in that forest!  Just sayin.

No ocean today, just lots of quiet farms and fields (I left 101 about half way through the day) including one that doubled as an airfield:

I also stumbled onto what would appear to be some extremely large marshmallows that had just been harvested:

I'm guessing the next step is to truck them off to be cut to size and (of course) "jet puffed".... (Sorry, slow day for pictures!).

Today was the first day I felt a bit weary.  Nothing too noticeable, but something that a cup of good coffee might remedy.  Well upon reaching Montesano, I found the elixir:

And hoh man!  Did that ever get me to the good place.  I also met another bike tourist heading on roughly the same route (and he's from Newhall - small world!) who tipped me off to the Grays Harbor Hostel just outside of Elma. A quick stop for groceries and then over to the hostel:

The hostel is owned by Jay and Linda Klemp.  Once I get all checked in and whatnot, Jay insists (in a good way) that I check out their disc golf course.  WOW!  He has put together a very challenging 18 hole course complete with water hazards and doglegs around trees.  Impressive!  If I wasn't so content hanging out in one of their comfy chairs, I'd be out there playing.

Day 5: Hoh Man! I'm Pedaling Through a Rain Forest

Trip:  Bogachiel River to Quinalt Lake

Distance:  65.6 miles

I woke up in a rain forest and it wasn't raining! (If these were lyrics to a Bob Dylan song, the next line might be "and then someone handed me a bone....."!).

Yes.  Today I did a fair amount of travel through rain forests - including the Hoh rain forest:

Another early start to get a few hours of the 101 to myself (mostly).  Perfect riding weather: 58-60 F, overcast and no wind. Stopped for a snack at rest stop near the Hoh River:

Looks like some good fishing down there....

And of course, no rest stop is complete without some calories:

I had a cheese and honey sandwich for lunch!  There's not much I won't shove into my stomach at this point.

It's easy to get into a content, zen like state as I pedal down the road - everything feels right (and it's hard to get lost on the 101).  I start to pick up the distinct smell of the ocean (the good one, not the dead fish one.....) and I know I am back at the ocean:

This of course makes me smile:

Well that, and all the free berries that can be found just about everywhere:

Cruise along a scenic stretch along the coast:

and then I turn east and head up towards Quinault  Lake:

While checking in for my campsite, I am informed that the Quinault Lodge (you check in for the campsite in a very nice lodge - weird mix of folks) was where President Teddy Roosevelt signed the national park act!  (Oops, correction.... He signed the bill that created the Olympic  National Park here).  Cool beans.  I am heading back later to scope out the actual desk (and buy beer at the store....).

I got a nice campsite right on the lake:

And that lake looked perfect for swimming - so I charged down there and swam for a bit - ahhhhhh :)

Camp neighbors are all super friendly- I have already been offered a chair by my next door neighbor,and some very friendly Canadians (is that redundant?) invited me by site 13 for a beer later  :)

I could get used to this

Day 4 - Lake Crescent to Bogachiel River

Distance:  53.7 miles

Vampire Sightings:  none

The crux of today's ride was getting around Lake Crescent (via US 101) before traffic got too crazy  So I got rolling at 6:00 a.m. and booked over to see what all the fuss about this stretch of road was.  

I was greeted with this masterpiece from the National Park Sevice risk management team:

It really wasn't that bad - a stretch of SR 20 on day 1 was was a lot sketchier. Most of the truck traffic (logging trucks) were coming the other way, and the empty trucks, were cool and gave me plenty of room. The RVers were still sleeping off their s'mores.....today was the first day I ran into an old friend from the Antelope Valley - WIND.  It was coming straight at me most of the day, and for a stretch  near Lake Crescent, it was howling (and making me cold!).

Can you see the white caps out there?

The rest of the day went by quickly and I get to enjoy the last 10 miles of the Olympic Discovery Trail:

After that it's back to 101 and the logging trucks and RVers.  Plenty wide shoulder, and listening to music makes you almost forget they are there (that's where a rear view mirror helps!):

I make it to Forks before noon, and smell something  good (and warm!) Coming from a cafe - soup!

Really hit the spot. Apparently, the movie "twilight" was filmed here, and the town is milking all the tourist traffic  out of this factoid.  You can't swing a dead cat (or salmon) without seeing a sign or business without a reference to the movie.  

A short pedal after that and I am at home for the night - a lush, forested campground on the Bogachiel River.  Hey Now!!

Day 3 - Sequim Bay to Crescent Lake

Distance:  55.9 miles

 

Today was all about the Olympic Discovery Trail which I (mostly) followed all day.  I say mostly because I did miss a turn here and there...... But my "alternates" all turned out swell :)

 

Lots of bridges and uncrowded trails - my kind of riding:  

 

 

 

 

 

See how happy all that traffic-free riding can make a person:

 

Seems like there was something interesting around every corner.  Neighborhood produce exchange:

 

And some words of encouragement from the locals:

 

 

 

 

And the knitters were tearing it up in Sequim (as usual):

 

Don't think the knitters were making this much noise:

 

Am starting to feel the need to eat everything in sight.  This was my first stop at 730!

 

 

 

Stopped for groceries in Port Angeles (where everyone seemed friendly) and then as I headed west things got more desolate/gritty..... More than one rebel flag flying in front of a house or double wide.  

 

After passing through Joyce, I turned left and commenced with the grind up the hill to Crescent Lake.  Arrived at camp (Log Cabin Resort...... Meh- I would avoid it) early enough to get some bike maintenance done and wash some clothes.  

 

Crescent Lake is beautiful - and I haven't seen a single body float up. Yet.

 

Day 2: Fort Ebey SP to Sequim Bay SP

Distance:  62.5 miles (a couple scenic detours)

Another fine day of pedaling.  But first, a pic from last night's sunset viewing area:

A quiet ride towards Coupeville with only this mom and her fawn awake yet:

Made it just in time for the 715 ferry to Port Townsend.  Even though I was the last one to show up, I was the first to get on! (Norton luck usually doesn't run that way....)

After the ferry ride, I stop for breakfast in town and met some friendly locals.  One guy educated me on why we are having so much warm weather these days.  Something about..... 100 hundred years ago,.... Particles in the air, China.....manufacturing.., rain shadows .....I think he was describing global climate change or some sort of conspiracy...... Hard to tell really.  He did wish me luck on my trip and went out of his way to go out to his truck and get me two granola bars.  What a guy!

The other fellow (Calvin) told me about how some folks have been very lucky in finding gold up near  the Olympic National Park (panning). But the best  story (he had a few) was about his friend who was fishing on Crescent Lake when a body floated up in front of him.  Of course he called the authorities who later determined that she had been down there for 20 years (Crescent Lake is very deep). She was well preserved because the water at the bottom is so cold. The best part of the story is that her husband (a doctor) had reported her missing and when she couldn't be found, moved to the East Coast. But when she was found he  apparently was overcome with guilt (or evidence) and confessed to the murder.  Port Townsend you rock!!

The rest of the day was spent on and off some cool trails ( 15+ miles).  Whoever puts the time and effort into keeping these trails up deserves some kudos:

Was plenty warm when I rolled into camp. Very nice place – view of the Sequim Bay from camp and the shade of an old growth forest :)

Things could be worse:

Found a great loaf of bread at a market on the way, so cheese and avocado sandwiches just feel right for dinner:

Day 1: ¡Adelante!

 

Today's Route: Bellingham to Fort Ebey state park 

Distance:  61.8 miles

Wildlife sightings:  deer, bald eagles, Canadian geese  

Finally got to start pedaling today.  After passing out immediately upon hitting the pillow last night, I was up early and on the road by 6.  Got a chance to see downtown Bellingham without any traffic - nice town.  And they were (apparently) happy to see me:  

 

The ride along Chuckanut drive was quiet and scenic with occasional views out to Bellingham Bay:  

 

While taking break right before riding on the Padilla Bay Trail, I met a nice couple who lived nearby and told me all about the area.  Including the location of a large rookery (?) of Blue Heron.  He said he has counted as many as 200!

 

Next, was a busy section of HWY 20 that made it hard to enjoy the scenery. I did manage to get a photo going over Fidalgo Bay:  

 

After crossing Deception Pass, I met my first touring cyclists on the trip.  They were from Toronto and had started riding in Vancouver -  heading down the coast with an ultimate goal of San Francisco.

The rest of the day I had a great view of the Strait of San Juan De Fuca including this lunch stop:  

A bit of an uphill grind to get my campsite for the night (fort Ebey State Park), but the views are outstanding!